Observations on the Muslim Culture in Senegal

One of the things that intrigues me most about Senegal is the Muslim culture. Nearly every Senegalese is Muslim - estimates range between 95 and 99% of the country's 14 million people identify themselves as Muslims. When I learned this as I researched this trip, I expected the culture to be something similar to what one might experience in the Middle East. But Senegal is far from what I picture Iran or Saudi Arabia to be like. For example, I have seen only one woman wearing a burqa the entire time I have been here (her husband was wearing a t-shirt and shorts). Most older women wear traditional colorful dresses while the younger generation wear the same things as their counterparts in the West: tank tops and flip flops, though only little girls wear shorts or skirts. Men and women sit side by side (or nearly backside ON backside) on Dakar's public transport, the car rapides, a far cry from Iran's segregated subway cars. Having heard of Muslims' devotion to prayer, I expected the city to essentially stop at regular intervals while everyone headed over to the mosque or took out their rugs to pray towards Mecca. While I do see men praying on the side of the road fairly often, it really is only a very small number. If you were to visit Dakar for just one day, I think you would find Senegal has more in common with the West than with the Islamic world.

But upon closer inspection, the influence of Islam here in Senegal is evident, though perhaps not in the manner you would expect. I have heard the "brand" of Islam practiced here is akin to the type of Catholicism that one might find practiced in Latin America. Idols and images are an important part of religion here, and following a particular marabout is as important as learning the Koran. Perhaps marabouts are analagous to saints in Latin American culture in terms of imagery and devotion. Marabouts are seen as intermediaries between laypeople and Allah. Devotion to a marabout earns one favor with Allah because a marabout has a better relationship with Allah than a regular Joe (or Aliou - one of the most popular male names here). Unlike saints, marabouts are living. Their adherents carry a photo of their marabout with them, sometimes hanging around their neck. Nearly every car, taxi, and bus has a photo of a marabout on the windshield. Though there is much much more to know about marabouts and their role in Senegalese culture, that is about all that I know definitively - anything else would be bordering on an educated guess.

Senegal is not a theocracy, although Islamic religious leaders have a powerful voice in political life here. That is why I was able to tell the customs agent at the airport that I was arriving as a missionary and he stamped my passport with a smile. Had I tried that in Tehran, I doubt I would have received the same reaction. And though the Islam practiced here by the majority is more casual or secular than in more fundamentalist countries, the culture of Islam plays a powerful role in Senegalese society. The concepts of honor and shame which characterize Islam are pivotal to life here. To embarrass or bring shame on oneself is to hurt your family as well. That is why it is so difficult for Christians here. To become a Christian is to bring shame on your family and likely they will disassociate themselves from you in order to maintain their standing in the community. Losing your family also means seriously reducing your opportunities for work (since jobs are often given here based on who you know rather than what you know) and for creating a family of your own. As a Christian you would be joining a very small community, so to follow Christ here requires some serious sacrifices. I pray and will continue to pray for the boys here at the House of Hope because once they leave, they face numerous challeneges as Christians in Senegal.

Time Flies When You're Having Fun...

Wow! I can't believe I've been in Senegal for nearly a month now. It has truly been a fantastic experience. The fears and worries I had before I left quickly disappeared here. In short, my prayers (and all those who were praying for me) were answered! I've slept well, I haven't gotten sick, I've gotten to know the boys really well, and I've felt welcomed and part of the team here from the very start. Thanks God :)

I've enjoyed living in and experiencing a different culture. I've found the Senegalese to be very warm and welcoming, friendly and helpful. I love just walking down the street and observing how life is lived here. I've been so fortunate to work with some great people, and in particular I've been blessed to work with three other young guys: a Senegalese, a Swiss, and a French guy. We're all in our 20s and we've gotten to be good friends, even though it takes me twice as long to spit out a sentence. Mmmm, ok 3 times as long. I've also worked with Brasilians, Haitians, Germans, Scots, English, Mexicans, Hondurans...together we make a pretty formidable UN delegation. It's been cool to work with people from all over the globe who share the same faith.

The highlight of my trip here, though, has been the time spent with the boys. I've loved getting to know every single one of them and I've learned so much from them. I like lists so here goes:

1) I've gained a better appreciation for how much a little gift, sharing something, or a little encouragement can mean. The boys have given me gifts such as a bracelet, drawings, snacks, etc, and each time I'm thankful and it strikes me that these guys who have so little want to share with me or give me something.

2) I'm impressed by how much joy they have. At first this surprised me because I knew they all have difficult backgrounds. But the more I think about it, the more it makes sense. They come from places where they were scared, lonely, and didn't receive much love...and now they are in a safe place surrounded by a loving community. Above all, they have been introduced to Jesus and God is at work in their lives. Of course they are joyful! Now, they still carry scars on their hearts and I think the longer I stayed here the more I would see that. But the boys have been given a second chance, they have hope for a future, and they are happy for that!

3) I've learned that brothers like to fight. I only have a sister so I never fought with a sibling. Did I Taylor? Hmmm...well it's safe to say I never lost a fight with a sibling. But the fighting is a good thing! The guys here love to wrestle, to shadow box, chase each other. Not once has it been malicious though - most of the time they're giggling the whole time they fight. I think that fighting is perhaps the way that boys hug.

4) There's been so many times when I've enjoyed just sitting back and watching the boys have fun. I have so much fun just watching them have fun, whether they're wrestling, playing soccer, or just laughing at whatever. I never thought I could get such a good feeling by just sitting there watching somebody else do the fun stuff.

5) I've learned that I can't dance. Ok, I already knew that. But they've reinforced that. At night, one of the Senegalese TV stations plays music videos and I attempt to mimic the moves on the screen with the help of the boys. It inevitably ends with me failing miserably, moving like I'm in a straightjacket, and all of the boys rolling on the floor laughing.

Well I could add more, but 5 is a nice number and I'll stop there. Besides, I've got some dancing to do.